The main purpose of Ionizer in an air purifier is to increase the CADR (clean air delivery rate). Magic Clean Air Cleaners with Ionizer are equipped with needle ionizer – which uses high voltage electricity to create negative electrons. These electrons run up the length of a pointed spike (or needle), where they stream into the air and attract themselves to oxygen molecules. At this point, they become negative ions.

Negative ions occur naturally in the air we breathe, and they are quite harmless. Negative ions attach to airborne particles. When enough negative ions are attached to a particle, it gets too heavy to float in the air and drops to the ground (a process known as agglomeration), effectively getting it out of regular air circulation.

Yes, but well within the ETL/UL allowance of 0.05 PPM. All our air purifiers are ETL or UL certified, which were tested in an “Ozone Test” Standard. The results for Magic Clean Air Cleaners with Ionizer are between 0.01~0.02 PPM.

No, Ionizers do nothing for odors.

For purpose of removing odor, you need to look for units with Activated Carbon – which is featured in our AC-3000, AC-3000i and AC-1220 models.

Please note that needle Ionizers cause the surrounding air to carry a negative charge while the wall and furniture around still carry a positive charge. Essentially, it causes particles to stick to nearby surfaces. This effect is known as “black wall”. We suggest you place the unit at least one foot away from the wall or furniture.

HEPA (High Efficiency Particulate Air) filter can effectively remove pollutants that trigger allergies and asthma, such as tobacco smoke, cat dander, dust and pollen. Our HEPA filters belong to the “interception” family of filters. Such filters have a deep bed of randomly positioned fibers made of glass, commonly known as micro-glass. The passages through which air must flow are not straight, but are very tortuous, with many twists and turns. As particulates impact on the fibers and adhere to them, the passages become smaller and filter efficiency goes up.

SD-35E / SD-40E / SD-65E: 5/8″ x 1/2″

SD-46T: 7/16″

SD-350 / SD-350Ti: Not applicable, continuous drainage not an option.

SD-014V (included): 0.7″ OD / 0.5″ ID x 80″ long

Soak the end of the tube (plastic white connector) in hot water for a few minutes will soften the plastic and make it easier to connect.

When ambient temperature is below 80°F, unit will frequently enter P1 mode (auto defrost). This is normal, wait for unit to restart after defrost.

When temperature is low, absolute humidity level will drop as well, even when relative humidity is at the same percentage. Simply put, there is less water vapor in the air when temperature is low.

The dehumidification rate for the mini dehumidifiers (SD-350, SD-350Ti, SD-652, SD-652Ti) is best when ambient temperature is 86F and humidity is 80% RH. At constant temperature(86F), if the humidity drops, dehumidify rate will decrease as well. When the temperature is below 59F, the dehumidify rate is nearly zero as the absolute Humidity is too low, regardless of Relative Humidity.

For SD-31E, SD41E, SD61E, SD-71E, SD-52PE, SD-72PE: Steel Sheet Metal Screw, Phillips Drive, Type AB, #4-24 Thread Size, 5/8″ Length

This is normal, due to the unit heating the water, the exterior of unit may get up to 90 degrees F.

We do not recommend extending the hoses on any of our dishwashers. Doing so may cause issues with draining, causing dishes to not be cleaned properly and lead to the drain pump to failing.

Portable and counter-top models are not designed to be permanently installed. Permanently installing portable and counter-top models may void your warranty. We do not sell kits or offer any assistance with such installations.

No, use only cold water. The dishwasher will heat the water as needed for each cycle.

Not enough Rinse Aid used, please increase the Rinse Aid Dispenser setting.

Too much Rinse Aid, please lower the Rinse Aid Dispenser setting.

Yes, for wash programs except Speed and Soak. The drying method is known as Residual Heat Drying where the unit uses residual heat from the warm water used during a wash. This drying method allows our units to be more energy efficient and quieter. It is normal to find the interior a little damp. It is recommended to open the door at the end of a wash cycle and leave it ajar for 10-15 minutes, the air exchange will allow the dishes to dry faster.

Please make sure the lid is closed when in operation. Kettle will not switch off if lid is left open.

If your SF-608RA is leaking from the back panel, it is most likely due to clogged drain holes in the water tray. Please click the link below and follow the instructions on unclogging/cleaning the unit. Note: this applies to model SF-608RA with serial number 15xxxx and after:

CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS

If the inner pot of your hot water pot has mineral build-up similar to the image, please follow the suggested cleaning procedure:

CLEAN WITH CITRIC ACID

• Add water to the full line.
• Add 1 pack of Citric Acid (2 oz) into tank, stir to dissolve.
• Close lid and connect power.
• Allow solution to boil and soak for 30~60 minutes.
• Carefully dispense a few cups of solution to clean the piping.
• Disconnect power and allow unit to cool down.
• Remove lid and pour out solution, rinse clean.
• Note: for Hot Water Pots with Self-Clean function, follow instructions as stated in manual.

Citric Acid can be found in many local supermarkets or purchased through our site by clicking on link: CITRIC ACID.

Unit needs to cool down between uses. If the power light blinks 10 times and powers off, this indicates unit’s temperature is above 104°F and needs to cool down. Please wait about 5 TO 10 minutes.

Sunpentown Portable AC units are equipped with an advanced condensation removal system: Self-Evaporating Technology (except WA-9000E, WA-1000E & WA-1205E). When running AC mode, this technology recycles the water condensation to cool off the cooling coils, then evaporates the water out with the exhaust air. This results in increased energy efficiency, cooling performance and reduces the need to empty the water tank. Under extreme humid conditions, the water condensation may collect faster than the unit can recycle. Should the built-in water tank becomes full, the compressor will automatically shut-off and water full indicator will blink. At this time, water should be emptied, which is a simple process.

There are two major cooling capacity ratings for portable air conditioners: ASHRAE & SACC. ASHRAE rating is common for all types of air conditioning units while SACC is specifically for portable ACs. SACC rating tends to be lower because it takes into account environmental factors that affect portable ACs.

Both ratings are in BTU, so they can be confusing. When choosing a portable air conditioner, pay attention if you compare different models with same type of cooling capacity ratings. (ASHRAE to ASHRAE, SACC to SACC)

More details

Sunpentown Portable AC units are supplied with a 1″ thick Foam Window Kit (except WA-9000E, WA-1000E & WA-1205E). The benefit of foam kit is its versatility and heat resistance over plastic kits. Foam can be easily trimmed to the desired size and once you close your window against the kit, the edges conform to the window frame and the result is a better seal than plastic. However, if you prefer to use plastic kit, we do offer optional plastic sliding kit which sells seperately (parts 10051).

All portable AC units require exhaust hose installation. This is for removal of hot air which has been used to cool off the compressor. Standard installation includes venting through a sliding window or through the wall, by cutting a hole. Sunpentown AC units are supplied with the necessary accessories for either installation: flexible hose (extends up to 5′), window kit and wall adapter.

Single Hose – draws indoor air for both front cold air output as well as exhaust air (used to cool compressor).
PROS:
1) Fresh air is exchanged within the room.
2) Higher energy efficiency.
CONS:
1) Percentage of the air taken in is used to cool the condenser. As this air is exhaust out, it creates a negative air pressure. Air is continuously seeping in from adjacent rooms to replace the exhausted air.
2) Slower initial cool down.

Dual Hose – draws indoor air for front cold air output and draws outdoor air for exhaust air (used to cool compressor).
PROS:
1) If outside temperature is lower than indoor temperature, compressor can be cooled down faster and produce colder front air output.
2) Minimum negative pressure created within the room
3) Initial cool down of room is quicker than single hose.
CONS:
1) Same air circulating within the room, which will decrease in oxygen and increase in carbon dioxide.
2) If outside temperature is high (>90°F) or when humidity is high (>80%), compressor cannot be cooled and results is increased temperature of front air output. In such cases, the second hose should not used to prevent the compressor from overheating.
3) Uses two internal fans and consumes more energy due to added hose.

When selecting a Portable Air Conditioner, there are other factors to take into consideration other than the BTU and the suggested square footage. If the space you’re looking to cool has one or more of the following factors, it is strongly recommended to go one or two size up:
1) Heat source such as computer servers, major appliance, skylight, direct sunlight, etc.
2) Higher floors.
3) Lots of windows, especially those facing the West.
4) Poor insulation, such as garage, sunroom, mobile home, etc.

1) Keep the exhaust hose as short and straight as possible.
2) Heat is emitted back into the room as hot air travels throught the hose, try insulating the hose.
3) If unit is to be operated thoughout the day, turn on the unit early, before the noon heat hits.
3) If unit is to be operated at night and outdoor temperature is lower than room temperature, first open windows to allow air exchange. After 15/20 minutes, close windows.
4) When unit is turned on, set fan on High to allow air circulation. After 30 minutes, set fan to Low. In low fan, air is allowed to pass through the cooling coils over a longer period of time, thus the air output will be colder than High fan.
5) For units with Self-Evaporating Technology, it is always suggested to not use continuous drainage in cooling mode. Allowing the water to collect and recycle helps cool down the cooling coils, which in turn produce colder air output.

HOUSING (as needed)
1. Wipe with soft, damp cloth.
2. Do not use strong chemicals, detergents or chemically treated cloths.

FILTER (once a week)
1. Remove filter frame from unit, tap lightly to remove loose dust and dirt particles.
2. Remove activated carbon filter (if applicable) from filter frame.
3. Rinse the white filter under running water (no hotter than 104°F). Dry thoroughly before replacing.
** Do not wet the active carbon filter

AIR INTAKE VENTS (once a week)
1. Using a handheld vacuum or with slender attachments for large vacuum cleaners, vacuum the air intake vents thoroughly.

THOROUGH CLEANING (once a month or when odor/mold is present)
1. Remove and clean filter frame.
2. Spray acidic solution directly onto the cooling coils. (For 13K & 14K units, coils are located behind the top filter frame).
3. Allow solution to settle for approximately 15 minutes.
4. Replace filter frame.
5. Turn unit ON and run in AC mode for 6 ~ 8 hours.
6. Turn unit OFF and drain water.

** For acidic solution, we recommend using Citric Acid Cleaner mixed with water. Citric Acid Cleaner, which is natural and harmless, can be purchased from any local grocery market. You can also use lemon/lime juice or vinegar mixed with water.

END OF SEASON STORAGE
** If you plan not to use your portable AC unit for a period of time, it is absolutely necessary to follow the instructions below to prevent mold and mildew growth.
1. Unplug unit and drain the water tank.
2. Clean the filter and intake vent.
3. Turn unit ON and run in FAN mode for 2 ~ 3 hours. This will allow the interior to dry completely.
4. Store unit in a dry, cool place – away from direct sunlight or major heat source.